
Monday, August 27, 2007
Lathe Bits

Getting Cranky

The spinner handle was made out of aluminum, the rest of the assembly is free machining steel (12L14). It took me a few days to make as I was working without drawings, and basically making it up as I went. Really turned out nice and is so more much comfortable to use. I can even tighten up the crosslide gibs a little more as I now have more leverage to turn the crosslide screw. I really want to get working on my first model, but I want to get all my mods done before I do. My next step is a milling column arrangement with the milling adapter which will mimic a 3 in 1 type machine. Also a leadscrew is in the works. Hope to get this done over the next week.
Thursday, August 23, 2007
Tools To Make Tools, To Make Tools, etc.
Threaded end of both adapters

Tailstock die holder without die

On both adapters you can see holes drilled across the bodies. This is to facilitate tightening and removing the adapters. Just insert a tommy bar and turn. The tailstock die holder is made out of a piece of 1-1/2" 6061 aluminum, bored through 3/8" to accomodate a length of stock to thread and with a 10-32 set screw to secure the die. The spindle adapter is made out of one of the pre-threaded blank arbors bought from Taig for $2.60, made from free machining steel. I had to make the die holder first, so I could thread the spindle adapter 3/8"-24 for the chuck to screw on. Both work great. It's a great feeling of accomplishment, and I'm looking forward to new projects in the near future. Please bear with me on the pictures as I'm using a borrowed camera which is older and not as high resolution as I'd like. I didn't take pictures of the making of the adapters because my access to the camera is limited, but hopefully soon I'll buy a new camera so I can take some action shots.
Monday, August 13, 2007
Let There Be Swarf...NOT!
This is the lathe in the container with chip shield
This is a better shot of the chip shield

The shield is made from a piece of 8"x10" Lexan cut in two, attached to a copper angle bracket that's predrilled. The bracket is actually bolted onto my lathe back tool post which is bolted into one of the T-Slots on the headstock. It works great and is very adjustable. Swivels away easily. Chip control is vastly improved and that makes me a happy camper.
Welcome To My Cave

Thursday, June 28, 2007
3D Doodling


It's a concept only so far although the proportions are close to what I want. As you can see its a 4 cycle engine with a belt driven camshaft. Obviously it's missing a few details still but I have quite a few hours into these drawings. I'm thinking 1/2" bore with 3/4" stroke and 2.5" flywheels. A nice size envelope for a Taig. Hopefully in the near future I can start on some working drawings.
Friday, June 8, 2007
Let there be swarf....

I was able to reduce the rod a few thousands with a nice smooth surface. It's going to take some practice to learn how to turn the handles smoothly though. I think the addition of a leadscrew is going to be very beneficial in this respect. Also, I'm going to design some kind of larger handle for the crosslide. There are a few issues I noticed with the lathe operation. The crosslide is noticeably tighter when moved towards the handle. After checking it out I can see that when the handle is turned counterclockwise, the dial assembly is pulled against the bearing block assembly significantly increasing friction between the two. Therefore the handle is harder to turn. When turned clockwise, the opposite occurs, thus the handle turns very freely. Maybe some kind of thrust washer can be used or maybe lapping of the dial/bearing block interface. I'll have to see. I also think that i need to spend a little more time lapping the crosslide to the carriage assembly to smooth it out. I'll be busy over the next few weeks with the move but I'll be definitely be working to resolve all the issues.
Tuesday, May 15, 2007
Speed Control Wired, Lathe Mounted

I am using two headstock pulleys because the shaft on the motor is 5/8". The pulley is not bored all the way through. Because of this the lathe sat too far to the right on the mounting board when the pulleys were aligned back to front. Therefore I decided to rotate the left side motor bracket 180 degrees and move the right hand bracket two inches to the left. The motor overhangs the board on the left about 3" now but the lathe fits perfectly. After i did that I got back to hard wiring everything and fitting it in the box. I added a power switch, a fuse holder and mounted the box on the board. I finally bolted the lathe on the board.

I still haven't got a knob for the speed controller potentiometer but everything works great. I want to add a power light but I'm going to have to look around for something small because the box is kind of crowded. Going to order a 4 jaw chuck this week and some cutting bits so I can start making some chips.
Monday, May 14, 2007
Lathe Drive Install
I'm happy to say that everything worked great the first time i plugged it in. I only had a simple schematic to work with but I did work in electronics for many years so that does help. Next, I had to screw down the steel sheeting on the mounting board as the glue I used was not as strong as I thought.

The sheeting is now on there solid although as you can tell by the picture, the sheet is easily marred and scratched. After this, I tackled the motor mounts. Two metal brackets from Home Depot did the trick.

I purposely let the left hand bracket overhang because I'm thinking of installing a goose neck halogen spotlight there. Here's the motor mounted:

I like the way the mounting system came out. The motor pivots on 1/2" bolts which allows for belt tightening. Finally, I started installing the speed controller in a box and gave the motor another test run to see how the mount holds up.

I'm excited about this motor/controller combo. The motor is very smooth running with very minimal vibration. I turned it way down to a crawl and the torque on the shaft was amazing. I couldn't stop it with my hand. UPS will be here today with my drive pulleys and belt so I will be installing those and finally mounting the lathe to the board. I also have to finish hard wiring everything. Stay tuned.....
Tuesday, May 8, 2007
Motor Found!


- Input: 115 or 230 VAC, 50/60 Hz
- Armature voltage (115 VAC IN): 0-90 VDC
- Armature voltage (230 VAC IN): 0-180 VDC
- 5 Amps output, 10 Amps w/heatsink
- 1/8 Hp to 1 Hp @ 90 VDC
- 1/4 Hp to 2 Hp @ 180 VDC
- 1% regulation over 60:1 speed range
- Size 4-5/16" x 3-19/32" x 1-19/32"
This controller and motor combination should work great. I expect the lathe to have plenty of power for any type of operation I may attempt. As soon as I get everything running, I'll post an update.
Wednesday, May 2, 2007
The Desktop

This is where all the action will be. You can see the Taig Microlathe in it's current state. It's actually not bolted down yet, just sitting there. I purchased the basic kit. All the initial lapping has been done. The mounting board is a 12"x 24" shelf purchased at Lowes. I added a sheet of 22 gauge steel on top for durability. I was going to use the motor in the upper left corner which came out of an old electric scooter. I decided against it however because the power supply would have to be rated at 40 amps which is huge. I have the battery and charger that goes with it but the battery (Seen on upper right corner of desk) weighs a ton and I would have to constantly be recharging it. I'm hunting on Ebay for a suitable motor.